by Angela Clifton, founder of Edenwild
what is bakuchiol? · bakuchiol vs retinol · why extraction matters · vitamin c · frankincense resin · who it's for · how to use · faqs
Retinol has been the go-to anti-aging ingredient for decades. The research behind it is deep, and dermatologists recommend it widely.
It's also known for a rough start. Peeling, redness, dryness, and stinging are common in the first weeks. Many people with sensitive or reactive skin never make it past that stage.
Bakuchiol takes a gentler path. If your skin has never gotten along with retinol, this is the comparison worth reading.
Quick answer: Bakuchiol is a plant compound from the babchi seed, used for centuries in Ayurvedic tradition. In a 2019 study comparing the two, bakuchiol and retinol showed similar improvements in the look of fine lines and uneven tone, but bakuchiol users reported less scaling and stinging. That makes bakuchiol the gentler choice for sensitive, reactive skin, while retinol still has the longer research record. Edenwild's Nectar Face Serum pairs CO2-extracted bakuchiol with a stable vitamin C and frankincense resin oil in a slow-infused, waterless base.
what is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol (pronounced buh-KOO-chee-ol) is a plant compound found in the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant known as babchi. Babchi is native to India and has a long history in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese herbalism, where it was used in preparations for the skin.
Western skincare only took notice of bakuchiol in the last couple of decades. Researchers became interested because, in early lab and clinical work, it produced visible results on fine lines and uneven tone that resembled what people expect from retinol, without the same harshness.
That's the short version of why it matters. Bakuchiol isn't a chemical cousin of retinol or a form of vitamin A. It's a separate, plant-derived ingredient that has been studied side by side with retinol, and the most noticeable difference people report is how it feels on the skin.
new here? start with nectar.
Nectar Serum is the product this article is about: bakuchiol, stable vitamin C, and frankincense resin oil in one formula.
bakuchiol vs retinol: the honest comparison
For sensitive, reactive skin, bakuchiol is the gentler choice. Retinol has the longer track record. Here's how they line up.
| retinol | bakuchiol | |
|---|---|---|
| what it is | a form of vitamin A | a plant compound from the babchi seed |
| getting started | often weeks of peeling, redness, and dryness while skin adjusts | usually no adjustment period; most people start with daily use |
| time of day | usually night only, since it breaks down in light and can increase sun sensitivity | morning or night; more stable in light |
| sensitive, reactive skin | often too harsh | generally well tolerated in studies so far |
| pregnancy and nursing | generally avoided | not well studied; ask your provider |
| research history | decades of studies | growing, but much smaller |
what the research found
The best-known head-to-head study was published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019. It followed 44 adults for 12 weeks, with one group using bakuchiol twice daily and the other using retinol once daily. Both groups saw similar improvements in the look of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation. The retinol group reported more scaling and stinging.
It's one small study, and it doesn't mean every bakuchiol product will perform the same way. But it's the clearest look we have at how the two compare, and the difference in comfort was the standout.
the honest trade-off
If you're choosing on volume of evidence alone, retinol wins. It has decades of research behind it. Bakuchiol's research base is growing, and what exists is encouraging, but it's younger.
What bakuchiol wins is the experience. No weeks of peeling to push through, no restricting it to nighttime, and far less of the stinging that sends sensitive skin running. If retinol has never worked for your skin, that difference matters more than anything else on this list.
Whichever you choose, daily sun protection still matters.
why CO2-extracted bakuchiol matters
Not all bakuchiol is the same, and the extraction method is a big part of why.
The whole babchi seed also contains psoralens, compounds known to increase the skin's sensitivity to light. A well-made bakuchiol extract isolates the bakuchiol and leaves those behind. That's what separates skincare-grade bakuchiol from the raw seed.
Nectar uses CO2-extracted bakuchiol. CO2 extraction uses pressurized carbon dioxide instead of high heat or chemical solvents, and the CO2 simply evaporates when the process is done. The result is a concentrated extract with nothing left behind from the extraction itself.
When one ingredient is doing the headline work in a formula, how that ingredient was made isn't a minor detail.
vitamin c, and why the form matters
Bakuchiol and vitamin C are a natural pair. Bakuchiol works on the look of fine lines and texture over time, and vitamin C is valued for a brighter, more even-looking tone and its antioxidant support.
The catch is that vitamin C is famously unstable. The most common form, L-ascorbic acid, breaks down quickly in light and air. You've probably seen it happen: a serum that turns orange in the bottle. Ascorbic acid also needs a low, acidic pH to work, which is exactly what makes those serums sting on sensitive skin.
Nectar uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, an oil-soluble form of vitamin C. It holds up far better than ascorbic acid, it doesn't need a low pH, and because it's oil-soluble it blends right into an oil serum like Nectar. For sensitive skin, that means vitamin C without the sting.
frankincense resin oil
Frankincense shows up in skincare in two forms, and they do different jobs.
Frankincense essential oil is steam-distilled from the resin. Steam carries over the light, aromatic compounds, which is why the essential oil is prized for its scent and aromatherapy. The heavier compounds, including the boswellic acids, stay behind in the resin.
Frankincense resin oil is made from the resin itself, so those heavier compounds come along. Boswellia resin has a long history in traditional herbalism for skin that looks red and stressed, and boswellic acids remain an active area of skincare research.
We use each form on purpose. Some of our formulas use frankincense essential oil for its aromatherapy. In Nectar, we chose resin oil because we wanted the boswellic acids working alongside the bakuchiol and vitamin C.
the supporting cast: why every ingredient earns its place
Every ingredient in an Edenwild formula has to justify being there. No fillers, no synthetic fragrance, nothing that isn't doing something for the skin. Here's what else is in Nectar.
Jojoba oil, slow-infused with calendula, chamomile, and marshmallow root. The base of the formula. Jojoba is a liquid wax that closely resembles the skin's own oils, which makes it an ideal carrier. The slow-infused botanicals are three of the gentlest, most traditional herbs for comforting skin.
Squalane (from olives). A lightweight moisturizer that mirrors a lipid your skin already makes. It sinks in quickly and leaves skin soft without heaviness.
Wildcrafted meadowfoam seed oil. One of the most stable plant oils there is, rich in long-chain fatty acids. It helps hold moisture in and suits both dry and combination skin.
Green coffee bean oil. Cold-pressed from unroasted beans and rich in antioxidants. Fast-absorbing and light.
Helichrysum essential oil. Also called immortelle, a staple of Mediterranean herbal tradition for skin that looks tired, red, or stressed.
Tocopherol (non-GMO vitamin E) and rosemary seed extract. Two antioxidants that help keep the oils fresh and stable for longer.
who nectar is for
Nectar was formulated as an anti-aging serum, but the people it serves go beyond that label.
Sensitive and reactive skin. Every ingredient is chosen to be effective without irritation. No adjustment period, no low-pH acids, no synthetic fragrance.
Mature skin. Bakuchiol and vitamin C target the concerns that show up with time: fine lines, dullness, and uneven tone.
Uneven tone and dark spots. Bakuchiol and vitamin C are one of the most popular plant-based pairings for a brighter, more even-looking complexion.
Pregnancy and nursing. Many women look for plant-based options during this season. Bakuchiol hasn't been formally studied in pregnancy, so check with your provider before adding Nectar to your routine.
Men. Bakuchiol, vitamin C, and antioxidants work on skin, not on a gender. Nectar absorbs fast, which suits anyone who wants a routine with no fuss.
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Ancestral Formulas, Made for Modern Families
Every Edenwild formula starts with a question: would we put this on our daughters' skin? If the answer is no, it doesn't make the cut. Formulated near Yellowstone.
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how to use nectar
Morning and night. Bakuchiol is more stable in light than retinol, so Nectar fits into both routines. Follow with sunscreen during the day.
On damp skin. Press 2 to 4 drops into freshly cleansed, slightly damp skin. Damp skin helps an oil serum spread and absorb.
Seal it with a tallow balm. Follow with Golden Root Antioxidant Balm (the pair is sold together as the Golden Hour) or Morning Dew to lock everything in.
What to expect. Most people notice softer skin and more glow within the first couple of weeks. Changes in tone and the look of fine lines build with consistent use over a few months.
read more
- the wyoming approach to wellness: simple, intentional, rooted
- what is holistic skincare? a complete guide to caring for skin from the inside out
- how to build a non-toxic, ancestral skincare routine for your whole family
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